The first step is to gain access to the inside rear of the kayak when the rudder cabling will exit the kayak in order to attach to the rudder itself. The kit comes with a paper template which is placed on the rear circular moulding at the rear of the tankwell. All nine holes are to be marked and drilled prior to removing the main access hole with a 4" hole saw. If you don't possess a hole saw it can be achieved with a jigsaw aided with a Dremel tool or rough circular file.
I was fortunate in the fact that I'd previously fitted a screw-type round hatch many months earlier when fitting my stern light. I'd personally recommend that you fitted a screw type hatch in lieu of the fixed blanking cover that is supplied with the kit. It's quite possible that you may need access in the future and having to de-rivet the blanking cover would be a real pain.
It's worth removing the existing footrail assemblies at this point, 2 cross-head screws hold each footrail in place, removed these and the footrails will fall away.The next job is to drill the four tubing holes to allow fitment of the steering lines. There are two holes are the rear of the yak and two holes in the rearmost section of the footwells (see photo). These are to be pilot drilled and opened up to 3/8" prior to fitting the four supplied grommets.
Front guide holes with grommets fitted
Take the supplied tubing and snip one end to a 45 degree angle, this will make inserting the tube into the grommets that much easier. Wet the tubing with very soapy water thus enabling the tube to slide through the grommets. Insert the tube into one of the footwell grommets from the footwell side. Thread it to the rear of the kayak keeping it between the tankwell and the outside wall of the kayak (outboard of the scupper holes).
Reach through the 4" access hole drilled previously and guide the tube through the stern grommet, paying attention that it's on the same side as the footwell grommet used previously. Pull the tube tight, removing any soap solution close to the grommet, this will prevent the tube sliding back into the yak. Once the tubing is taught cut the tubing 1" from the grommets as shown below.
The new footrails can be fitted at this point, refit as per the removal mentioned above, ensuring the pedal is towards the bow of the boat. You'll notice that these footrails use a different bolt hole to the removed type, however it's already existing so that makes life easy.
DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN !
Repeat for the other track.
The steering cables can be un-wound and straightened. Feed each cable through it's respective footwell grommet so all the excess passes through the stern grommet. Keep it tidy at this point as kinking it would be bad news.The supplied instructions stated to 'adjust the pedal on the track using the tri-glide, so that the cable loop is at the back edge of the track when it is pulled straight'. I found this actually put the cable too far back, this would lead to fouling in the 1" of tube exiting the grommet and thus not allowing full lock of the rudder. I found having this loop further forward gave the desired result, see the photo below.
The rudder blade can now be fitted. Disassemble the large screw and bush assembly from the rudder body. Insert the bushing into the rudder blade prior to fitting and lining up the centre holes of the blade and the body. Fit the screw and nyloc nut. Again, do not over-tighten, the blade should be able to move freely. The photo below shows the rudder blade fitted, ignore the ropes, they are fitted at a later stage.
Next to fit is the strap eye and clam cleat. One the right hand side of the yak, where the seat well and tankwell meet there are two 'O' ring marking spots where these items are to be attached.
Next in installation of the rudder retraction and deployment lines. On the rudder body, viewing from the top looking forward, feed the retraction rope aft under the grey cam, around an over the top, ensuring enough has been fed through to reach the clam cleat. Feed this long length through the holes on the rudder blade itself. This is explained adequately on the supplied instructions, see the photo below for the finished detail.
The next step is to attach the two loose end of the retraction/deployment rope. This is achieved with the aid of some supplied bungee cord utilising the explained knots. The knots are straightforward enough and well explained, though it may take more that one attempt to get them located in the desired position. when tying the second not you need to keep the bungee cord tight in order to retain sufficient tautness in the cord loop that you've created.
The final job is to fit the supplied blanking plate to the 4" hole made earlier in the rear tankwell. Remove any debris and apply a bead of silicon to the mating surfaces and rivet in place.